Looking to look like you're worth a million bucks for under a thousand?

I recently set off in search of a bespoke suit. Here is what I initially sought: a three-piece, two button suit good for three out of the four seasons, custom lining, in gray or navy wool herringbone; a classic cut, suit for the office or the evening, but with some subtle flourishes. With a few samples ripped from magazines and catalogs in hand (as well as some advice from the Esquire black book of style), I researched appropriate tailors in Philadelphia.

Royal Custom Tailors: The gentleman here discussed what I was looking for and showed me some samples. He gave me a quote of $1,350. An online search for reviews turned up nothing on his suit-making.

Dress Right/David Chae: Without discussion of specifics, I was quoted a price of $1,500 to $2,000. An online search for reviews turned up nothing except a Best of Philly 2009 award, which does not mention the suit-making.

Mr. Rock: His website is useless and the pricing scheme (only $999 for two suits and three shirts) left me skeptical. I am also not comfortable with the fact that he is a transient, travelling from city to city and shipping work orders back to Hong Kong (supposedly). I wouldn't imagine that results in a great suit or a trust-building relationship with your tailor. I do appreciate his supposed strategy of building his customer base with MBA students and establishing a relationship with them throughout their business careers. Nonetheless this whole scheme appears dubious to me.

Nieman Marcus: An online search does not specify whether custom suit-making is offered.

Boyd's: I suspect they do custom suits here. I also suspect they will start somewhere north of $2,000.

Phillip E. Leon Haberdashery: I was referred to Chris Phillips by a friend. We discussed what I was looking for and he quoted me a recession special price starting at $600. I've scheduled a fitting, so we'll see.

The above-referenced Esquire guide suggests one should expect to pay at least $3,000 for a bespoke suit. Is the ethic at work in Esquire is always highly aspirational, I assume that means its reasonable to spend, what, $1,500? $1,000? The first two on my list would therefore be in that range. Phillip E. Leon's non-recession prices start at $900, which also roughly squares with the suggested price range. (Seth has purchased bespoke suits in China, so the information is not applicable to this evaluation.) About $1,000 sounds reasonable to me and that is what I would like to pay.

Again, I think the target demographic of Esquire is basically the aged 30 to 40 years young professional dandy, oft single, with money to spend and with the habit of admiring nice things just outside what is reasonable for them to spend. And I think that nearly encompasses my situation. Really, its unnecessary for me to purchase a bespoke suit; I own several nice ones I have bought off the rack and had tailored to fit. Its just that I think I should own at least one made to fit. Or several.

To be continued...